SULFURIC ACID

Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or
industrial plant.  However, it is readily available in an uncharged car
battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of
a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container.  There would probably
be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed,
either by boiling or filtration.  The concentration of the sulfuric acid can
also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster
than clean motor oil.


   AMMONIUM NITRATE

     Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive.
It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an ice
bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask and running away,
ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped reacting, one
would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place until all of the water
and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. There would be a fine
powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight
container, because of its tendency to pick up water from the air.  The crystals
formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off the
remaining water.

AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS

Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals
that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they
are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine.  Such
crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks
across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps
and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed,
or heated. Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms.  The
pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear ammonia should
be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. Upon detonation, a loud report is
heard, and a cloud of purple iodine gas appears about the detonation site.
Whatever the unfortunate surface that the crystal was detonated upon will
usually be ruined, as some of the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a
solid form, and iodine is corrosive.  It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent
brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts. Iodine gas is also bad news,
since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the ground and stains things
there also.  Touching iodine leaves brown stains on the skin that last for
about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously washed off.  While
such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist, a vandal could
utilize them in damaging property.  Or, a terrorist could throw several of
them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly injure a
few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that may not be
seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion.

    Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced in the following manner:

     Materials                Equipment
     ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ                ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
     iodine crystals          funnel and filter paper
                              paper towels
     clear ammonia
     (ammonium hydroxide,     two throw-away glass jars
      for the suicidal)

1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars.  The jars
   must both be throw away because they will never be clean again.

2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.

3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the
   funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in
   every basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a
   semi-circle is formed.  Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with
   one curved side.  Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place
   the cone into the funnel.

4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the
   solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.

5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar
   to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains.

6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper,
   and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour.  Make sure
   that they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they
   could well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into
   eight pieces of about the same size.

7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of
   duct tape.  Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape
   together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself.
   Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and
   store the crystals in a cool dry safe place.  They have a shelf life of
   about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can
   be thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process
   which  gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on.
   One possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight
   containers.  To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place
   them where they will be stepped on or crushed.

PICRIC ACID

     Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military
explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less
sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T.  It another explosive that is fairly
simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and
nitric acids.  Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college
chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow.  The main problem with picric
acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts,
such as potassium picrate.  For this reason, it is usually made into a safer
form, such as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D.  A social deviant
would probably use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric
acid.

     MATERIALS                         EQUIPMENT
     ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ                         ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
     phenol (9.5 g)                    500 ml flask

     concentrated                      adjustable heat source
     sulfuric acid  (12.5 ml)
                                       1000 ml beaker
     concentrated nitric               or other container
     acid (38 ml)                      suitable for boiling in

     distilled water                   filter paper
                                       and funnel

                                       glass stirring rod


1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5 ml
   of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.

2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and
   bring the water to a gentle boil.

3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling
   water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty
   minutes.  After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool
   for about five minutes.

4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to
   cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section
   3.13, steps 3-4.  Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in
   the ice bath.  Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts,
   stirring the mixture constantly.  A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should
   occur.  When the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of
   the ice bath.

5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more
   tap water.  Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water,
   and heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.

6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice
   bath until it is cold.

7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution
   through the filter paper in the funnel.  Collect the liquid and dispose of
   it in a safe place, since it is corrosive.

8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the
   filter paper in the flask.  Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously.

9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.

10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will
    react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode
    spontaneously.

Making Picric Acid from Aspirin

 Picric Acid can be used as a booster explosive in detonators, a high
explosive charge, or as an intermediate to preparing lead picrate.

Material Required
-----------------
Aspirin tablets (5 grains per tablet)
Alcohol, 95% pure
Sulfuric acid, concentrated, (if battery acid, boil until white fumes
     disappear)
Potassium Nitrate (see elsewhere in this Cookbook)
Water
Paper towels
Canning jar, 1 pint
Rod (glass or wood)
Glass containers
Ceramic or glass dish
Cup
Teaspoon
Tablespoon
Pan
Heat source
Tape

Procedure:
---------

1) Crush 20 aspirin tablets in a glass container. Add 1 teaspoon of water
and work into a paste.
2) Add approximately 1/3 to 1/2 cup of alcohol (100 millilitres) to the
aspirin paste; stir while pouring.
3) Filter the alcohol-aspirin solution through a paper towel into another
glass container. Discard the solid left in the paper towel.
4) Pour the filtered solution into a glass or ceramic dish.
5) Evaporate the alcohol and water from the solution by placing the dish
into a pan of hot water. White powder will remain in the dish after
evaporation.

NOTE: The water in the pan should be at hot bath temperature, not boiling,
approx. 160 to 180 degress farenheit. It should not burn the hands.

6) Pour 1/3 cup (80 millilitres) of concentrated sulfuric acid into a
canning jar. Add the white powder to the sulfuric acid.
7) Heat canning jar of sulfuric acid in a pan of simmering hot water bath
for 15 minutes; then remove jar from the bath. Solution will turn to a
yellow-orange color.
8) Add 3 level teaspoons (15 grams) of potassium nitrate in three portions
to the yellow-orange solution; stir vigorously during additions. Solution
will turn red, then back to a yellow-orange color.
9) Allow the solution to cool to ambient room temperature while stirring
occasionally.
10) Slowly pour the solution, while stirring, into 1-1/4 cup (300
millilitres) of cold water and allow to cool.
11) Filter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container. Light
yellow particles will collect on the paper towel.
12) Wash the light yellow particles with 2 tablespoons (25 millilitres) of
water. Discard the waste liquid in the container.
13) Place articles in ceramic dish and set in a hot water bath, as in step
5, for 2 hours.

Reclamation of RDX from C-4 Explosives

RDX can be obtained from C-4 explosives with the use of gasoline. It can
be used as a booster explosive for detonators or as a high explosive charge.

Material Required
-----------------
Gasoline
C-4 explosive
2 - pint glass jars, wide mouth
Paper towels
Stirring rod (glass or wood)
Water
Ceramic or glass dish
Pan
Heat source
Teaspoon
Cup
Tape

NOTE: Water, Ceramic or glass dish, pan, & heat source are all optional. The
RDX can be air dried instead.

Procedure:
---------

1) Place 1-1/2 teaspoons (15 grams) of C-4 explosive in one of the pint jars.
Add 1 cup (240 milliliters) of gasoline.

NOTE: These quantities can be increased to obtain more RDX. For example, use 2
gallons of gasoline per 1 cup of C-4.

2) Knead and stir the C-4 with the rod until the C-4 has broken down into small
particles. Allow mixture to stand for 1/2 hour.
3) Stir the mixture again until a fine white powder remains on the bottom of
the jar.
4) Filter the mixture through a paper towel into the other glass jar. Wash the
particles collected on the paper towel with 1/2 cup (120 milliliters) of
gasoline. Discard the waste liquid.
5) Place the RDX particles in a glass or ceramic dish. Set the dish in a pan of
hot water, not boiling and dry for a period of 1 hour.

NOTE: The RDX particles may be air dried for a period of 2 to 3 hours.
See later file......

Carbon-Tet Explosive

 A moist explosive mixture can be made from fine aluminum powder combined
with carbon tetrachloride or tetrachloroethylene. This explosive can be
detonated with a blasting cap.

Material Required                                 Source
-----------------                                 ------
Fine aluminum bronzing powder                     Paint store
Carbon Tetrachloride                              Pharmacy, or fire
         or                                       extinguisher fluid
tetrachloroethylene                               Dry cleaners, pharmacy
Stirring rod (wood)
Mixing container (bowl, bucket, etc.)
Measuring container (cup, tablespoon, etc.)
Storage container (jar, can, etc.)
Blasting cap
Pipe, can or jar

Procedure:
---------

1) Measure out two parts aluminum powder to one part carbon tetrachloride or
tetrachlorethylene liquid into mixing container, adding liquid to powder
while stirring with the wooden rod.
2) Stir until the mixture becomes the consistency of honey syrup.

CAUTION: Fumes from the liquid are dangerous and should not be inhaled.

3) Store explosive in a jar or similar water proof container until ready to
use. The liquid in the mixture evaporates quicky when not confined.

NOTE: Mixture will detonate in this manner for a period of 72 hours.

How to Use:
----------

1) Pour this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap threaded
on one end. If a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin can or glass
jar.
2) Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix.

NOTE: Confining the open end of the container will add to the effectiveness
of the explosive.

NITRIC ACID

There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for 
explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once 
again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!!

     Materials:                             Equipment:
     ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ                              ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
     sodium nitrate or                      adjustable heat source   
     potassium nitrate
                                            retort
     distilled water
                                            ice bath
     concentrated
     sulfuric acid                          stirring rod

                                            collecting flask with stopper

1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort.

2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium
nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly.  If it all does not dissolve,
carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does.

3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the 
collecting flask in the ice bath.

4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat.  Continue heating until liquid
begins to come out of the end of the retort.  The liquid that forms is nitric
acid.  Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry,
or until no more nitric acid is forming.  CAUTION: If the acid is headed too
strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed.  This can
result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may
explode.  It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get away
from it.

     Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder,
simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the sulfur
and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to
dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling water. Filter
the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar until the
liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are
insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to evaporate,
potassium nitrate will be left in the jar.

MERCURY FULMINATE 2

Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it of
infinite value to a terrorist.  Even the action of dropping a crystal of the
fulminate causes it to explode.  A person making this material would probably
use the following procedure:

     MATERIALS                  EQUIPMENT
     ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ                  ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
     5 g mercury               glass stirring rod

     35 ml concentrated         100 ml beaker (2)
     nitric acid

     ethyl alcohol (30 ml)      adjustable heat source

     distilled water            blue litmus paper

                                funnel and filter paper

     Solvent alcohol must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make
mercury fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming.

     Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately.  They may be
hard to find in most stores as they have been superseded by alcohol and other
less toxic fillings. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which are
available at electronics stores. Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should
be kept in the thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury
vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled.  For this reason, it is a
good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not
get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this.

1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid,
   using the glass rod.

2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the
   solution turns green and boils.

3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and
   carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it.  Red and/or
   brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable.

4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that
   the reaction is near completion.  After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the
   distilled water to the solution.

5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid
   solution.  Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive and
   toxic.

6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess
   acid as possible.  Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are
   neutral.   This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches
   the wet crystals

7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from
   any explosive or flammable material.

       This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury
cannot be weighed.  Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of
ethanol to every one volume of mercury.

how to make Sodium Chlorate

Sodium Chlorate is a strong oxidizer used in the manufacture of
explosives. It can be used in place of Potassium Chlorate.

Material Required                            Sources
-----------------                            -------

2 carbon or lead rods (1 in. diameter        Dry Cell Batteries
by 5 in. long)                               (2-1/2 in. diameter by
                                             7" long) or plumbing
                                             supply store
Salt, or ocean water                         Grocery store or ocean
Sulfuric acid, diluted                       Motor Vehicle Batteries
Motor Vehicle
Water
2 wires, 16 gauge (3/64 in. diameter approx.), 6 ft. long, insulated.
Gasoline
1 gallon glass jar, wide mouth (5 in. diameter by 6 in. high approx.)
Sticks
String
Teaspoon
Trays
Cup
Heavy cloth
Knife
Large flat pan or tray       

Procedure
---------

1) Mix 1/2 cup of salt into the one gallon glass jar with 3 litres (3
quarts) of water.
2) Add 2 teaspoons of battery acid to the solution and stir vigorously
for 5 minutes.
3) Strip about 4 inches of insulation from both ends of the two wires.
4) With knife and sticks, shape 2 strips of wood 1 by 1/8 by 1-1/2. Tie
the wood strips to the lead or carbon rods so that they are 1-1/2 incles
apart.
5) Connect the rods to the battery in a motor vehicle with the insulated
wire.
6) Submerge 4-1/2 inches of the rods in the salt water solution.
7) With gear in neutral position, start the vehicle engine. Depress the
accelerator approx. 1/5 of its full travel.
8) Run the engine with the accelerator in this position for 2 hours, then
shut it down for 2 hours.
9) Repeat this cycle for a total of 64 hours while maintaining the level
of the acid-salt water solution in the glass jar.

CAUTION: This arrangement employs voltages which can be quite dangerous!
Do not touch bare wire leads while engine is running!!

10) Shut off the engine. Remove the rods from the glass jar and
disconnect wire leads from the battery.
11) Filter the solution through the heavy cloth into a flat pan or tray,
leaving the sediment at the bottom of the glass jar.
12) Allow the water in the filtered solution to evaporate at room
temperature (approx. 16 hours). The residue is approximately 60% or more
sodium chlorate which is pure enough to be used as an explosive
ingredient.

How to Make Dynamite

Dynamite is nothing more than just nitroglycerin and a stablizing
agent to make it much safer to use.  For the sake of saving time, I
will abbreviate nitroglycerin with a plain NG.  The numbers
are percentages, be sure to mix these carefully and be sure to use the
exact amounts.  These percentages are in weight ratio, not volume.

no.  ingredients                 amount
---------------------------------------
#1   NG                          32
     sodium nitrate              28
     woodmeal                    10
     ammonium oxalate            29
     guncotten                    1
#2   NG                          24
     potassium nitrate            9
     sodium nitate               56
     woodmeal                     9
     ammonium oxalate             2
#3   NG                          35.5
     potassium nitrate           44.5
     woodmeal                     6
     guncotton                    2.5
     vaseline                     5.5
     powdered charcoal            6
#4   NG                          25
     potassium nitrate           26
     woodmeal                    34
     barium nitrate               5
     starch                      10
#5   NG                          57
     potassium nitrate           19
     woodmeal                     9
     ammonium oxalate            12
     guncotton                    3
#6   NG                          18
     sodium nitrate              70
     woodmeal                     5.5
     potassium chloride           4.5
     chalk                        2
#7   NG                          26
     woodmeal                    40
     barium nitrate              32
     sodium carbonate             2
#8   NG                          44
     woodmeal                    12
     anhydrous sodium sulfate    44
#9   NG                          24
     potassium nitrate           32.5
     woodmeal                    33.5
     ammonium oxalate            10
#10  NG                          26
     potassium nitrate           33
     woodmeal                    41
#11  NG                          15
     sodium nitrate              62.9
     woodmeal                    21.2
     sodium carbonate              .9
#12  NG                          35
     sodium nitrate              27
     woodmeal                    10
     ammonium oxalate             1
#13  NG                          32
     potassium nitrate           27
     woodmeal                    10
     ammonium oxalate            30
     guncotton                    1
#14  NG                          33
     woodmeal                    10.3
     ammonium oxalate            29
     guncotton                     .7
     potassium perchloride       27
#15  NG                          40
     sodium nitrate              45
     woodmeal                    15
#16  NG                          47
     starch                      50
     guncotton                    3
#17  NG                          30
     sodium nitrate              22.3
     woodmeal                    40.5
     potassium chloride           7.2
#18  NG                          50
     sodium nitrate              32.6
     woodmeal                    17
     ammonium oxalate              .4
#19  NG                          23
     potassium nitrate           27.5
     woodmeal                    37
     ammonium oxalate             8
     barium nitrate               4
     calcium carbonate             .5

Household equivalants for chemicles

It has come to my attention that many of these chemicles are
sold under brand names, or have household equivalants.  here is a list
that might help you out. Also, see elsewhere in this Cookbook for
a more complete listing............

acetic acid                vinegar
aluminum oxide             alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate alum
aluminum sulfate           alum
ammonium hydroxide         ammonia
carbon carbonate           chalk
calcium hypochloride       bleaching powder
calcium oxide              lime
calcium sulfate            plaster of paris
carbonic acid              seltzer
carbon tetrachloride       cleaning fluid
ethylene dichloride        Dutch fluid
ferric oxide               iron rust
glucose                    corn syrup
graphite                   pencil lead
hydrochloric acid          muriatic acid
hydrogen peroxide          peroxide
lead acetate               sugar of lead
lead tetrooxide            red lead
magnesium silicate         talc
magnesium sulfate          Epsom salts
naphthalene                mothballs
phenol                     carbolic acid
potassium bicarbonate      cream of tartar
potassium chromium sulf.   chrome alum
potassium nitrate          saltpeter
sodium dioxide             sand
sodium bicarbonate         baking soda
sodium borate              borax
sodium carbonate           washing soda
sodium chloride            salt
sodium hydroxide           lye
sodium silicate            water glass
sodium sulfate             glauber's salt
sodium thiosulfate         photographer's hypo
sulferic acid              battery acid
sucrose                    cane sugar
zinc chloride              tinner's fluid

Keep this list handy at all times. If you can't seem to get one
or more of the ingredients try another one.  If you still can't, you
can always buy small amounts from your school, or maybe from various
chemical companies.  When you do that, be sure to say as little as
possible, if during the school year, and they ask, say it's for a
experiment for school.
                              -------------RFLAGG-------------

Egg-based Gelled Flame Fuels

The white of any bird egg can be used to gel gasoline for use as a
flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces.

Materials Required
------------------

Parts by
Volume               Ingredient              How used        Common Source
--------             ----------              --------        -------------

85                   Gasoline                Motor Fuel      Gas Stations
                                             Stove Fuel      Motor Vehicle
                                             Solvent

14                   Egg Whites              Food            Food Store
                                             Industrial      Farms
                                               Processes

Any one of the following:

1                    Table Salt              Food            Sea Water
                                             Industrial      Natural Brine
                                               Processes     Food Store

3                    Ground Coffee           Food            Coffee Plant
                                                             Food Store

3                    Dried Tea Leaves        Food            Tea Plant
                                                             Food Store

3                    Cocoa                   Food            Cacao Tree
                                                             Food Store

2                    Sugar                   Sweetening      Sugar Cane
                                               foods         Food Store

1                    Saltpeter               Pyrotechnics    Natural
                     (Potassium              Explosives        Deposits
                     Nitrate)                Matches         Drug Store
                                             Medicine

1                    Epsom Salts             Medicine        Natural
                                             Mineral Water   Kisserite
                                             Industrial      Drug Store
                                               Processes     Food Store

2                    Washing Soda            Washing Cleaner Food Store
                     (Sal Soda)              Medicine        Drug Store
                                             Photography     Photo Supply
                                                               Store

1 1/2                Baking Soda             Baking          Food Store
                                             Manufacturing   Drug Store
                                             of: Beverages
                                                 Medicines
                                                    and
                                                 Mineral
                                                   Waters

1 1/2                Aspirin                 Medicine        Drug Store
                                                             Food Store

Procedure:
---------

CAUTION: Make sure that ther are no open flames in the area when mixing
flame fuels! NO SMOKING!!

1) Seperate the egg white from the yolk. This can be done by breaking the
egg into a dish and carefully removing the yolk with a spoon.
2) Pour egg white into a jar, bottle, or other container, and add gasoline.
3) Add the salt (or other additive) to the mixture and stir occasionally
until gel forms (about 5 to 10 minutes).

NOTE: A thicker gelled flame fuel can be obtained by putting the capped jar
in hot (65 degrees Centegrade) water for about 1/2 hour and then letting
them cool to room temperature. (DO NOT HEAT THE GELLED FUEL CONTAINING
COFFEE!!)

How to make Potassium Nitrate

Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other
things. Here is how you make it:

Materials needed:

 -3.5 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material
 -1/2 cup of wood ashes
 -Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume
 -2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the
  bottom of the bucket
 -Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket
 -Shallow, heat resistant container
 -2 gallons of water
 -Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket
 -1 gallon of any type of alcohol
 -A heat source
 -Paper & tape

Procedure:

 - Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the
metal is"puckered" outward from the bottom

 - Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom

 - Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers
the entire cloth and has about the same thickness.

 - Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes

 - Place the dirt or other material in the bucket

 - Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need
support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not
blocked.

 - Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour
it all at once, as this will clog the filter on the bottom.

 - Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the
bottom.

 - Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth!

 - Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so

 - Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the
sludge in the bottom

 - Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small
grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they
form

 - When the liquid has boiled down to 1/2 its original volume let
it sit

 - After 1/2 hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this
mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals appear. This
is the posassium nitrate.

Purification:

 - Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water

 - Remove any crystals that appear

 - Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution
to dryness.

 - Spread out crystals and allow to dry

Napalm (Another way to make it...)

About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistancy,
like jam and is best for use on vehilces or buildings.
Napalms is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The soap is
either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergents won't do.
The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The
usual way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least a
two-quart capicity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil
and the double boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where
there is no flame.
Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and
allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the mess
is stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to fill
a bathtub with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its heat
longer and permit a much larger container than will the double boiler.

How to make Napalm

Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container.

- Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't
eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup.

- Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused
stuff lasts a long time!

Touch Explosives

This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in
large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a
snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe:

- Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will
not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia
and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you
dried the thermite (in other words, just let it sit overnight!).

- Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch
explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully!
Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh?
They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to
them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds,
football games, concerts, etc.) Have fun!

BLACK POWDER 3

 First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first
used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century.  It is very simple to
make, but it is not very powerful or safe.  Only about 50% of black powder is
converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine
burned particles.  Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by
static electricity.  This is very bad, and it means that the material must be
made with wooden or clay tools.  Anyway, a misguided individual could
manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:

     MATERIALS               EQUIPMENT
     ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ               ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
     potassium               clay grinding bowl
     nitrate (75 g)          and clay grinder

       or                         or

     sodium                  wooden salad bowl
     nitrate (75 g)          and wooden spoon

     sulfur (10 g)           plastic bags (3)

     charcoal (15 g)         300-500 ml beaker (1)

     distilled water         coffee pot or heat source



1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding
 bowl and grind it to a very fine powder.  Do this to all of the potassium or
 sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.

2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a
separate plastic bag.

3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker,
   and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.

4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium
nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes.  Do this until there is no
more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.

5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight.
  Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too
  hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water.

6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe
 container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper.  Never
 store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate
 static electricity.


Another addition to the CookBook

Nitroglycerin Recipe

                          by the Jolly Roger

Like all chemists I must advise you all to take the greatest care
and caution when you are doing this.  Even if you have made this stuff
before.
This first article will give you information on making
nitroglyerin, the basic ingredient in a lot of explosives such as
straight dynamites, and geletin dynamites.
Making nitroglycerin
1. Fill a 75-milliliter beaker to the 13 ml. Level with fuming
   red nitric acid, of 98% pure concentration.
2. Place the beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below room
   temp.
3. After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount of
   fuming sulferic acid (99% h2so4).  In other words, add to the
   now-cool fuming nitric acid 39 ml. Of fuming sulferic acid.
   When mixing any acids, always do it slowly and carefully to
   avoid splattering.
4. When the two are mixed, lower thier temp. By adding more ice
   to the bath, about 10-15 degrees centigrade. (Use a
   mercury-operated thermometer)
5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature,
   it is ready for the glycerin. The glycerin must be added in
   small amounts using a medicine dropper.  (Read this step about
   10 times!)  Glycerin is added slowly and carefully (i mean
   careful!) Until the entire surface of the acid it covered with
   it.
6. This is a dangerous point since the nitration will take place
   as soon as the glycerin is added. The nitration will produce
   heat, so the solution must be kept below 30 degrees
   centigrade! If the solution should go above 30 degrees,
   immediately dump the solution into the ice bath!  This will
   insure that it does not go off in your face!
7. For the first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture should be
   gently stirred.  In a normal reaction the nitroglycerin will
   form as a layer on top of the acid solution, while the sulferic
   acid will absorb the excess water.
8. After the nitration has taken place, and the nitroglycerin has
   formed on the top of the solution, the entire beaker should be
   transferred slowly and carefully to another beaker of water.
   When this is done the nitroglycerin will settle at the bottem
   so the other acids can be drained away.
9. After removing as much acid as posible without disturbing the
   nitroglycerin, remove the nitroglycerin with an eyedropper and
   place it in a bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate in case
   you didn't know) solution.  The sodium is an alkalai and will
   nuetralize much of the acid remaining. This process should be
   repeated as much as necesarry using blue litmus paper to check
   for the presence of acid.  The remaining acid only makes the
   nitroglycerin more unstable than it already is.
10. Finally! The final step is to remove the nitroglycerin from
    the bicarbonate.  His is done with and eye- dropper, slowly
    and carefully.  The usual test to see if nitration has been
    successful is to place one drop of the nitroglycerin on metal
    and ignite it.  If it is true nitroglycerin it will burn with
    a clear blue flame.
** Caution **
Nitro is very sensative to decomposition, heating dropping, or
jarring, and may explode if left undisturbed and cool.

how to make Plastic Explosives from Bleach

Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach        
Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound,
and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in
grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as
France and Germany.  Common household bleach contains a small
amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the
procedure that follows.

First off, you must obtain:

[1]  A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
[2]  A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
[3]  A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh
     chemicals)
[4]  Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and
     nutrition stores)

Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin
heating it.  While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of
potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated.
Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer,
and boil until you get a reading of 1.3.  If using a battery
hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.

Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it
is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celcius.  Filter out the
crystals that have formed and save them.  Boil this solution again
and cool as before.  Filter and save the crystals.

Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with
distilled water in the following proportions:  56 grams per 100
milliliters distilled water.  Heat this solution until it boils
and allow to cool.  Filter the solution and save the crystals that
form upon cooling.  This process of purification is called
"fractional crystalization".  These crystals should be relatively
pure potassium chlorate.

Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to
drive off all moisture.

Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax.  Dissolve this
in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on
90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above)
into a plastic bowl.  Knead this liquid into the potassium
chlorate until intimately mixed.  Allow all gasoline to evaporate.

Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place.  Avoid
friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds.  This
explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3
grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof.  These block
type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity.  Also, a
blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.

The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides,
etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive
and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage.  You
should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME
caution at all times while performing the processes in this
article.

You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by
writing:

     Information Publishing Co.
     Box 10042
     Odessa, Texas  79762

Thermite Incendiaries and Formulas

 ....



DISCLAIMER : The making and possesion of the following devices and mixtures
    is probably illegal in most communities. The incendiaries are
    capable of burning in excess of 5400 degrees F. and are next
    to impossible to extinguish. If you make them you accept all
    responsibility for their possesion and use. You also accept
    all responsibility for your own stupidity and carelessness.
    This information is intended solely to educate.

All Formulas are by Weight

  Thermites are a group of pyrotechnics mixtures in which a reactive metal
reduces oxygen from a metallic oxide. This produces a lot of heat, slag and
pure metal. The most common themite is ferroaluminum thermite, made from
aluminum (reactive metal) and iron oxide (metal oxide). When it burns it
produces aluminum oxide (slag) and pure iron.
Thermite is usually used to cut or weld metal. As an experiment, a 3lb. brick
of thermite was placed on an aluminum engine block. After the thermite was
done burning, only a small portion of block was melted. However, the block
was very warped out of shape plus there were cracks all through the block.
Ferro-thermite produces about 930 calories per gram
The usual proportions of ferro-thermite are 25% aluminum and 75% iron oxide
The iron oxide usually used is not rust (Fe2O3) but iron scale (Fe3O4).Rust
will work but you may want to adjust the mixture to about 77% rust.
The aluminum is usually coarse powder to help slow down the burning rate.
The chemicals are mixed together thoroughly and compressed into a suitable
container. A first fire mix is poured on top and ignited.

NOTE: Thermites are generally very safe to mix and store. They are not shock
or friction sensitive and ignite at about 2000 degrees F.

A first fire mix is a mixture that ignites easier than thermite and burns
hot enough to light the thermite reliably. A very good one is :
 Potassium Nitrate 5 parts
      Fine ground Aluminum 3 parts      
    Sulfur 2 parts
   
Mix the above thoroughly and combine 2 parts of it with 1 part of finely
powdered ferro-thermite. The resulting mixture can be light by safety fuse
and burns intensely.


One problem with thermites is the difference in weight between the aluminum
and the oxide. This causes them to separate out rendering the thermite
useless. One way to fix this is to use a binder to hold the chemicals to
each other. Sulfur is good for this. Called Diasite, this formula uses
sulfur to bind all the chemicals together. It's drawback is the thermite
must be heated to melt the sulfur.
   Iron Oxide 70 %
   Aluminum   23 %
   Sulfur      7 %

Mix the oxide and aluminum together and put them in an oven at 325 degrees
F. and let the mix heat for a while. When the mixture is hot sprinkle the
sulfur over it and mix well. Put this back in the oven for a few minutes
to melt all the sulfur. Pull it back out and mix it again. While it is
still hot, load into containers for use. When it cools, drill out the
diasite to hold about 10 - 15 grams of first fire mix.
When diasite burns it forms sulfide compounds that release hydrogen sulfide
when in contact with water. This rotten egg odor can hamper fire fighting
efforts.
Thermite can be made not to separate by compressing it under a couple of
tons pressure. The resulting pellet is strong and burns slower than thermite
powder.

CAST THERMITE: This formula can be cast into molds or containers and hardens
into a solid mass. It does not produce as much iron as regular ferro-thermite
, but it makes a slag which stays liquid a lot longer. Make a mixtures as
follows.
     Plaster of Paris 2 parts
      Fine and Coarse  Mixed Aluminum 2 parts
   Iron Oxide 3 parts
Mix together well and and enough water to wet down plaster. Pour it into a
mold and let it sit for 1/2 hour. Pour off any extra water that seperates
out on top. Let this dry in the sun for at least a week. Or dry in the sun
for one day and put in a 250 degree F. oven for a couple of hours.
Drill it out for a first fire mix when dry.

THERMITE BOMB: Thermite can be made to explode by taking the cast thermite
formula and substituting fine powdered aluminum for the coarse/fine mix.
Take 15 grams of first fire mix and put in the center of a piece of aluminum
foil. Insert a waterproof fuse into the mix and gather up the foil around
the fuse. Waterproof the foil/fuse with a thin coat of wax. Obtain a two-
piece spherical mold with a diameter of about 4-5 inches. Wax or oil the
inside of the mold to help release the thermite. Now, fill one half of the
mold with the cast thermite. Put the first fire/fuse package into the center
of the filled mold. Fill the other half of the mold with the thermite and
assemble mold. The mold will have to have a hole in it for the fuse to stick
out. In about an hour, carefully separate the mold. You should have a ball
of thermite with the first fire mix in the center of it, and the fuse
sticking out of the ball. Dry the ball in the sun for about a week.
DO NOT DRY IT IN AN OVEN !
The fuse ignites the first fire mix which in turn ignites the thermite.
Since the thermite is ignited from the center out, the heat builds up in the
thermite and it burns faster than normal. The result is a small explosion.
The thermite ball burns in a split second and throws molten iron and slag
around. Use this carefully !

THERMITE WELL: To cut metal with thermite, take a refractory crucible and
drill a 1/4 in. hole in the bottom. Epoxy a thin (20 ga.) sheet of mild steel
over the hole. Allow the epoxy to dry. Fill the crucible with ferro-thermite
and insert a first fire igniter in the thermite. Fashion a standoff to the
crucible. This should hold the crucible about 1 1/2 in. up. Place the well
over your target and ignite the first fire. The well works this way.
The thermite burns, making slag and iron. Since the iron is heavier it goes
to the bottom of the well. The molten iron burns through the metal sheet.
This produces a small delay which gives the iron and slag more time to
separate fully. The molten iron drips out through the hole in the bottom of
the crucible. The standoff allows the thermite to continue flowing out of the
crucible. The force of the dripping iron bores a hole in the target.
A 2 lb. thermite well can penetrate up to 3/4 in. of steel. Experiment with
different configurations to get maximum penetration. For a crucible, try a
flower pot coated with a magnesium oxide layer. Sometimes the pot cracks
however. Take the cast thermite formula and add 50% ferro-thermite to it.
This produces a fair amount of iron plus a very liquid slag.

THERMITE FUEL-AIR EXPLOSION: This is a very dangerous device. Ask yourself
if you really truly want to make it before you do any work on it.
It is next to impossible to give any dimensions of containers or weights
of charges because of the availability of parts changes from one person to
the next. However here is a general description of this device affectionately
known as a HELLHOUND.
      Make a thermite charge in a 1/8 in. wall pipe. This charge must be
electrically ignited. At the opposite end of the pipe away from the ignitor
side put a small explosive charge of flash powder weighing about 1 oz.
Drill a small hole in a pipe end cap and run the wires from the ignitor
through the hole. Seal the wires and hole up with fuel proof epoxy or cement.
Try ferrule cement available at sporting goods stores. Dope the threads of
the end caps with a good pipe dope and screw them onto the pipe.
This gives you a thermite charge in an iron pipe arranged so that when the
thermite is electrically ignited, it will burn from one end to the other
finally setting of the flash powder charge.
Place this device in a larger pipe or very stout metal container which is
sealed at one end. Use a couple of metal "spiders" to keep the device away
from the walls or ends of the larger container. Run the wires out through
the wall of the container and seal the wires with the fuel proof epoxy.
Fill the container with a volatile liquid fuel. Acetone or gasoline works
great. Now seal up the container with an appropriate end cap and it is done.

The device works like this: Attach a timer-power supply to the wires. When
the thermite is ignited it superheats the liquid fuel. Since the container
is strong enough to hold the pressure the fuel does not boil. When the
thermite burns down to the explosive, it explodes rupturing the container
and releasing the superheated fuel. The fuel expands, cooling off and
making a fine mist and vapor that mixes with the surrounding air. The hot
thermite slag is also thrown into the air which ignites the fuel-air mix.
The result is obvious. Try about 1 1/2 lbs of thermite to a gallon of fuel.
For the pressure vessel, try an old pressure cooker. Because the fuel may
dissolve the epoxy don't keep this device around for very long.
But ask yourself, do you really want to make this?


EXOTIC THERMITES: Thermites can also be made from teflon-magnesium or metal
flourides-magnesium or aluminum. If there is an excess of flouride compound
in the mixture, flourine gas can be released. Flourine is extremely
corrosive and reactive. The gas can cause organic material to burst into
flames by mere contact. For teflon-magnesium use 67% teflon and 33% magnesium
A strong first fire igniter should be used to ignite this mixture. Both the
teflon and the magnesium should be in powdered form. Do not inhale any
smoke from the burning mixture.
If you use metal-florides instead of teflon, use flourides of low energy
metals. Lead flouride is a good example. Try using 90% lead flouride and
10% aluminum.
Warning: Flouride compounds can be very poisonous. They are approximately
equal to cyanide compounds.
Another exotic mix is tricalcium orthophosphate and aluminum. When this
burns,it forms calcium phosphide which when contacts water releases hydrogen
phosphide which can ignite spontaneously in air.
Tricalcium orthophosphate has the formula Ca3(PO4)2 and is known as white-
lockite. Use about 75% orthophosphate and 25% aluminum. This ratio may have
to be altered for better burning as I have not experimented with it much and
don't know if more aluminum may reduce the calcium better. It does work but
it is a hard to ignite mixture. A first fire mix containing a few percent
of magnesium works well.

Fighting thermite fires: Two ways to fight thermite fires are either
smothering the thermite with sand. This doesn't put out the thermite but it
does help contain it and block some of the heat.
The other way is to flood the thermite with a great amount of water. This
helps to break the thermite apart and stop the reaction. If you use a small
amount of water, an explosion may result as the thermite may reduce the water
and release hydrogen gas.
Thermite can start fires from the heat radiating from the reaction. Nearby
flammable substances can catch fire even though no sparks or flame touch
them.

*** Kilroy was here ***

49 Blasting Caps

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Blasting caps are a little better way of setting off and explosive.
They can give the explosive a higher detonation velocity and are needed for
some higher explosives were a simple rocket igniter won't due.  This is
kind of a mild version of a blasting cap.  It does not pack quite the punch
a regular blasting cap would.  For one thing this will flash more or less
and an actuall blasting cap would explode or pop.  All you need is some
paper, an estes model rocket igniter, and again some paper caps.  Take the
paper and cut off a peice about a square inch..you can size it down as you go
along.  COMPACT some caps into the peice of paper.  Then cup the paper so
that the caps are in a little ball like shape.  Then insert the igniter into
the middle of the cap ball and crimp the paper shut tightly.  You should
place a thin strip of tape right were the paper and the igniter meet to
keep it closed and compact.  Then you insert this into whatever your device
is and clip your detonating wires that run to the detonator on it and boom
your done!